Talking Retinols, At Home Devices & Transitional Skincare with Cali Strauhs 🌟

A ramble on skin fads, juicy skin, tight jawlines and all the good stuff.

Today we have our verrrry first interview with NYC Facialist Cali Strauhs. Founder of Strauhs Studios in Tribeca at 401 Broadway.

This is angel face Cali <3

Since we’ve last spoken she’s expanded and opened her very own studio space. While I haven’t been to her new spot it seems nothing short of magical and v sexy so please check it out :)

My biggest takeaways if you want the spark 🌟 notes of this are:

No point in buying expensive skincare if you’re not diligently wearing sunscreen which we know, but it was really drilled into my brain this time. Also a good rule of thumb is two fingers worth of SPF to fully reap the benefits (who knew!)

Massaging your neck, chest and décolleté area is necessary for any depuffing/drainage to actually happen before doing lymph drainage to the face.

Microcurrent and LED Light therapy are one of the few things that will actually help improve the skin at home when it comes to home care treatments. Remember that it’s cumulative!

Everyone can use a retinol situation but don’t go frying your skin off. Tretinoin is not for everybody, it's more so about using doses of Vitamin A that are suitable for your skin.

You should get facials every 4 weeks (I for whatever reason thought otherwise) if you’re truly working on improving your skin. This is because your cells turnover about every 28 days, and slows down as we age.

Keep the dermaplaning for the professionals. The at-home tools are often bad quality blades and cause long term damage to the skin.

Warning: this was a long chat with lots of questions turned into somewhat of an interview. Apologies in advance for all the run on sentences. Hope you enjoy! Xo

N: Ok so winter! Let’s talk about the transition.

C: Winter is all about layering and sandwiching layers into the skin. It's important to remember that not everyone has dry skin, but everyone can absolutely suffer from dehydrated skin, or TEWL (transepidermal water loss) which exaggerates fine lines and skin sensitivities. Step one - purchase a humidifier and sleep next to it every. single. night during colder months.

A quality serum (and no, not The Ordinary Hyaluronic acid) is going to be a smaller molecular size and penetrate deeper into the skin. As an acne prone gal, I love a water-based serum that doesn't have any pore clogging ingredients. One of my favorite products I sell at the studio are called "Beauty Drops" by Future 5 Elements. There are several different versions, even one for highly fragile, sensitive skin with couperose veins. If you have a compromised or dehydrated skin barrier you need these drops, along with one of the Future 5 Elements creams. They formulate some of the best I have ever tried (Augustus Banner does not compare IMO)

When it comes to facial oils, I like to do it as my very last step on top of moisturizer. This is because moisturizers & facial oils work differently. Moisturizer really protects skin from environmental stressors so it’s important to still layer moisturizer underneath the oil especially when we're trying to combat winter skin dryness.

N: I use an oil as a moisturizer. Is that a no no then?

C: Your skin looks gorgeous and your moisture barrier is strong, so it would be a case by case situation. In your case, you have fantastic genetics. I have a lot of clients who pack on oils but their skin is still suffering from trans epidermal water loss and needs water based hydration.

*blushing* thanks mom n dad

N: Ok so this leads me into moisture barrier. What is it? I see it all the time people talking about a destroyed moisture barrier and trying to repair it.

C: Oftentimes, when a moisture barrier is impaired, it’s usually visually dehydrated and inflamed. Dehydration in the skin lacks water, and dehydrated skin exacerbates fine lines. It needs to get juiced up! Cough cough, humidifier!!! You can actually see dehydration in the skin - crinkly fine lines, it feels dry and tight, but it doesn't mean you're necessarily a dry skin type. Dehydrated skin lacks water, and dry skin produces little to no oil. Serums have smaller molecular size that’s going to penetrate deeper into the epidermis, healing and strengthening your barrier! So I always have my clients sandwich a quality serum underneath moisturizer. And of course the serum depends on the skin and its needs, goals. etc.

N: Yeah I always see that everywhere & I assumed it was like people frying their skin off.

C: That’s also another thing it can be a result of, over-exfoliaton. It was happening night and day during the peak of the P50 era. But now people have more resources, and moisture barrier education is so much more prominent even within brands and their marketing.

N: Yes I remember P50, how do you feel about that?

C: I love chemical exfoliation and I can't live without it. But every unique skin requires a different frequency, and formulation. The glycolic acid toner I use a few times weekly, may not be suited for someone who is naturally very dry, because glycolic has the smallest molecular size, penetrates the deepest into the skin therefore can be drying. As for me, I never experience dryness because I always balance it out with the correct hydration afterwards, and I don't overdo it.

There was a long period of time where I had endless clients coming to me with a disrupted barrier, acne, skin overproducing oil. The culprit? They were using P50…daily. Sometimes twice a day. And this is often the culture around it. I'm not against P50, I actually love to use it to prep the skin before a mask to assist in further product penetration. Just be mindful about "stronger doesn't mean better", being that there are several versions.

N: I feel like there was the P50 era when everyone & their mom was on it. Or like glossier made that dupe solution and I used it and it started stinging and I was like fuck this. I’m scared I’m gonna fry my face off.

C: With an exfoliating toner, or an exfoliant in general, it's ok if it tingles! But there is a difference from tingling to burning. I love exfoliating toners. I have a few personal favorites that I carry that I have seen much better result with!

N: What would you say is the normal amount of tingle? Like anytime I’ve gotten a facial here a little of it feels normal because I’m here but like at home what would you say is the norm? I’m assuming redness & inflamation is when you’re like ok no.

C: Exactly. I think with any exfoliating products in general, it's normal for some people to pink up a bit. But there’s a fine line between like flushing in the skin and then feeling like you're having a reaction. When I'm performing an in-treatment peel, I always ask my clients to let me know how tingly it feels 1-5. Generally it should be no higher than a 3. An at home treatment I would feel more comfortable with it feeling like a level 2.. or 2.5.

There are also stronger professional chemical peels that are meant to be spicy, which would of course be solely in treatment, and most likely being used to correct skin damage, or lift pigment, etc.

N: That leads me into retinoids vs retinal & all that stuff. Are we supposed to be using them? Who should be using them? When do you start? What even is it?

C: Using vitamin A is so important for the function of the skin. It's a common misconception to go straight for the gold standard which is the retinoid, or Tretinoin. However, it's just not feasible for all peoples skin. It can do damage! You need to work your skin up to it, slow and steady.

When you begin using a retinoid, or any Vitamin A, a good rule of thumb is starting it once a week the first week and each week adding an additional day. Layering moisturizer underneath helps to create a barrier to dilute the formulation so your skin can get accustomed to it, and avoid your skin feeling uncomfortable. Retinization is not necessarily bad, but it could just be a lot of downtime for you & can be uncomfortable. You just need to understand how to comfort the skin through this process. This is when the skin starts to flake & can get irritated.

N: Do you think everyone should be using it?

C: The skin needs vitamin A to function at its best, so I do think it's important for people to use vitamin A regularly, in small doses, working up to stronger amounts overtime. Even low doses regularly is helpful for rosacea. Low and slow is the ticket. Retinyl palmitate is my favorite version of Vitamin A, as it's a gentle delivery to the skin, there is no downtime and no photosensitivity. This way you can use Vitamin A regularly, morning and night (depending on product) and get regular cell turnover and keep your skin bouncy and plump, and age gracefully!

N: I feel like people know a lot about the strong stuff but do you have a favorite product thats like baby steps? Like for me starting to dip your toe in?

C: I usually start people on the environ retinol series, they have a lot of different sub genres but I really like the retinol 1 2 and 3 serum. It has this milky, colostrum-like hydrating base which helps to keep my skin quenched. You start at level one and each time you finish a bottle you work up to a stronger dose. I love this formula & I always wake up with softer skin. The C quence series is stronger and better for people who are not acne prone.

N: Ok so treatments. Are there any cool things out there that you think people can really benefit from?

C: Yes, I often send clients to Nurse Gigi who does lasers and more invasive treatments depending on somebody's skin concern. If you simply want your best skin ever, like myself - I do microcurrent and peels regularly on myself, and once in a while alternate with more invasive treatments with Gigi is to me, the sweet spot. She has so many different lasers for amazing skin regeneration. The best thing about her is she will always keep you in check, not letting you overindulge in filler or botox so you age gracefully and just look like the best natural version of you. It's the undetectable look! I personally have survived off of peels and microcurrent and that has kept me looking like a fetus, enough where I don't need botox!

N: Is there anything that you do? Like that ice stuff that you do you? Or micro current? Do you do that in every facial?

C: Microcurrent is cumulative and I think it's important to come in for the longer treatments with me so you can get micro current, and a peel monthly. Having a device at home to maintain, and come in and get the real deal in treatment is key. For at-home devices, I love the Purelift micro current, which is I believe 20% stronger than the Nuface. This is important for areas of the face that's "falling" like the nasal labial folds or jowls, because lasers and injectables won’t lift and work out the face the way microcurrent will.. unless you get a face lift. My nurse esthetician friend agrees! And LED light therapy is a no brainer for endless reasons. You can go big with the Celluma LED Light Panel or get something a bit more affordable like the CurrentBody LED mask. You get what you pay for when it comes to devices.

* I have been using the purelift micro current since I last saw Cali & I am OBSESSED.

N: How often would you do the microcurrent at home?

C: I think it depends what device you have but typically like five days a week, when you're winding down at the end of the day make it a priority. 80% of results lie in your homecare routine.

N: Since we’re talking about at home devices. Is microcurrent more effective than gua sha, or the rolley devices and all those manual skin tools?

C: Definitely more effective. I think the tools are really good for more manual lymphatic drainage & yes it depends on what your concern is but if it's just lifting then mircrocurrent. But if we’re talking depuffing & drainage then gua sha is fantastic. If you’re looking for that cut in your cheek mircrocurrent is the best option. If you have facial tension, get the Myofascial release tool called the "Amna" by Jane Mann!!

If you have used microcurrent and not seen the results you hoped for, it could be because your fascia is getting in the way. Pairing microcurrent treatment with Anma massage is the best way to give your face a revitalizing lift. Remember to take a breath, and use this as a way to really care for yourself aside from esthetic reasons, and just connect and learn more about your body.

N: Is there anything that you wish that people would stop doing? Like any trends that you see on the internet. Or anything that you’re like oh no you’re doing a disservice to yourself?

C: Yes. Dermaplanning at home with a very jagged edge tends to leave lots of micro cuts. Dermplaning in treatment is done with an actual surgical blade that you need a license to purchase with. As someone who gets laser hair removal on their face, there were desperate times where I was using the tinkle razor to remove unwanted hair, and I for sure noticed a difference in my barrier, and had constant texture and ingrowns.

N: Ok so we’re definitely leaving that up to you guys!

N: Ok so vitamin C stuff. I feel like that was another craze at one point. How do you feel about that? Any favorites?

C: I always recommend the Environ Mela-even cream. It's fat soluble and it's better than any 20% serum on the market including skinceuticals speaking via quality control. Vitamin C sometimes could irritate the skin so if somebody is more sensitive or acne prone, it might be because it is technically an active ingredient!

N: Ok so with routines and stuff now that it’s cold. I know it’s a case by case thing but is there a general rule of thumb that you would say this is the direction you should lean?

C: So I would make sure that you have a really hydrating toner, free of alcohol. And for the love of god, avoid putting witch hazel directly on the skin as it completely strips your acid mantle.

I carry a brand called "Exquisite FB" and they have a product called "Ultra Hydrating Toner". It's a simple formula, yet its my ride or die AM and PM. For me, the water binding hydrating ingredients are key.

I know we both share a deep love the Flora cream serum from Monastery. In the summer time, you can use this alone, as is. Winter time, sandwich it underneath an occlusive like the Attar Balm or one of the Future moisturizers that are out of this world.

The future moisturizers are beyond. Like beyond amazing.

N: Since we’re here do you have any cult favorites?

C: The Lemuria Phytomarine cream is one of my favorites, along with the Cream Extreme 2. The quality is just something else. Nothing compares to it. And their beauty drops. Monastery's Flora cream serum, and rose cleansing oil, their gold oil. Environs retinols. My favorite glycolic toner from Environ is a ride or die. The list goes on. But my absolute cult favorites are the Environ professional peels that I offer in treatment.

N: How often should we be getting facials?

C: Once a month because your skin cells turn over every 28 days, which slows down as we age. Commit to facials every 4 weeks and your skin will transform. But most important, commit to a customized home regimen, guided by someone who truly understands your skin and its needs.

N: I love that. I love facials so any excuse to come back I will take.

C: Also another winter skin tip is if you’re dry and tight move towards creamier cleansers oil based cleansers. The rose monastery oil cleansers is one my favorite &  it's non pore-clogging. So really just going for things that don’t feel stripping. No pure witch hazel on the skin!

N: Is there anything else you wanna add or just share with us?

C: Yes sunscreen! For it to actually be effective we have to use two fingers worth of SPF.

N: Like two whole fingers???

C: Yes two whole fingers & it really only lasts about 2 to 3 hours on the skin so if you're doing laser treatments or peels or anything to combat pigmentation or aging or just preservation you need it. None of it is worth it if you're not diligent with your spf. So we want to find a spf that we love. Nothing pore clogging (since you have to apply so generously), and mineral is preferred for sensitive skin. The Tizo Ultra Zinc tinted SPF, as 90s as it looks, is so hydrating and looks divine on the skin. This doesn’t clog your pores, and it doesn't pill, ever. It's the perfect base for make-up.

If you want something with a little bit more coverage, apply two fingers worth of Tizo, and then the Skinbetter compact mineral spf on top. This is my ride or die product combo. A couple drops of the Tower 28 Sunny Days on top is great too. Make-up artist Nikki Deroest just came out with a brand called "Ciele Cosmetics" which just launched and also offers a great mineral, acne safe SPF too, which I would also use for more coverage. I have been following Nikki for YEARS, and she talked a lot about Face Reality years ago, which is what inspired me to get certified by them.

N: OK so basically if we're not using sunscreen you can throw out the rest of the skincare.

C: Yup! It's completely counterintuitive. You can easily get pigmentation all over your chin & so many areas especially on vacation. Like you still need to wear a hat and cover yourself and not just rely on SPF.

N: OK, so depuffing. I just got the doctor Sherine Idriss depuffer thing that just won the allure thing. Are there any favorite depuffing things that you like?

C: Yeah so things like this would be really helpful to keep in the refrigerator. But when we’re actually trying to depuff and do lymphatic drainage it’s really important to start massaging around the neck, chest and décolleté area , then proceed to the face to drain excess fluid.

N: Why?

C: Excess fluid can't drain if these prominent lymph nodes are not activated. So that goes even with gua sha too. Manual Facial Lymphatic drainage is very light pressure. Think of it like gently pressing a water balloon and moving the fluid.

N: A friend of mine also put me onto those whiskey ice ball things. I put on a sheet mask & then roll the ice on top is that actually good?

C: Yes absolutely. Icing is especially effective for bringing down painful cysts.

Side note: If you’re going to be buying any of the products mentioned above consider purchasing directly from Strauhs Studios & supporting a woman owned small business 🤍 Also if you would like to be touched by a real life ANGEL, Saren is amazing. A facial and some sort of spiritual shift might just happen :)

I now only use products Cali has recommended after my facials & do not buy into random shit I see on the internet & it has made such a difference. Yes some of these products are expensive but it issss your literal face & these very pro products are so rich & a little goes a long way. (this way you don’t have all this random crap in your bathroom that might not even work for you!)

Go get a facial! Go get some hydrating serums, get a product consult. Stay hydrated out there sweeties. Till next time.

As always thanks for reading <3

Xo